Hanyul Luminant Cushion

There's a typhoon rolling around outside. My throat is so sore that all I can do is drink lukewarm tea through a straw. And I'm killing time watching amazing talent show auditions. Yay! What a way to spend a Sunday evening.

But to make myself feel a little less miserable while being miserably sick, I actually put on some makeup and even did my hair today. It did help to brighten my day a bit. Especially the fact how gloriously bright and even my skin looked. This is something that will never cease to amaze me.

And why my skin looked so awesome?
Three words for you.

Hanyul Luminant Cushion.


Tajfun szaleje za oknem. A mnie tak boli gardlo, ze jedyne co moge robic, to pic ostudzona herbate przez slomke. I na polepszenie humoru ogladam sobie roznego rodzaju x-faktory na jutubie. Czyli, wspanialy niedzielny wieczor.

Zeby czuc sie mniej mizernie bedac zmizerowana przeziebieniem, zrobilam sobie dzis makijaz i nawet wlosy tez umylam. Poprawilo mi to humor. Szczegolnie ten fakt jak wspaniale rozjasniona i wyrownana moja cera wygladala. To chyba nigdy nie przestanie mnie zadziwiac.

A dlaczego moja cera wygladala tak swietnie?

Trzy slowa.

Hanyul Luminant Cushion.

Oh yes, the full name of this wonder is Hanyul Luminant Cushion SPF 50+ PA+++, dear search engines.

Let me say it straight off the bat - this is my holy grail cushion.
I have four more cushions to test and frankly, after Hanyul, it seems like a waste of time.

And don't you just love this simple and chic box?
English on one side, Korean on the other:


Pelna nazwa tego cuda to Hanyul Luminant Cushion SPF 50+ PA+++, zeby wyszukiwarki wiedzialy co maja wyszukiwac.

Powiem prosto z mostu - to jest moj KWC i swiety graal w jednym.

Mam cztery dodatkowe poduszki wciaz do przetestowania, ale po Hanyulu, po prostu nie chce mi sie. Strata czasu.

Zacznijmy od pudelka.
Proste, ale bardzo eleganckie.
Angielski po jednej stronie, koreanski po drugiej.

If you're a cushion maniac, like me, there are already reviews of Hera UV Mist Cushion and Sulwhasoo Evenfair Perfecting Cushion and Iope Air Cushion XP on this blog. 
They are all good, solid cushion foundations. But sadly, or rather - luckily in this case, I have a Pokemon mentality when it comes to cushions. And so I kept collecting.

Hanyul Luminant Cushion wasn't on my original shopping list. I got it on a whim. I don't remember the reason why. Probably something to do with spending enough to qualify for free shipping.
I picked the lighter of the two available shades, marked as number 1 and variously translated as "bright pink", or "light pink", or simply "pink".

Remembering how unpink the supposedly pink shade of Sulwhasoo cushion was, I didn't expect much.

Jesli jestescie maniaczkami poduszek tak jak ja, to juz sa tu na blogu recenzje poduszek: Hera UV Mist Cushion, i Sulwhasoo Evenfair Perfecting Cushion i Iope Air Cushion XP. Wszystkie one to dobre, solidne poduchy. Ale mnie ciagle bylo malo i nadal kolekcjonowalam.

Hanyul Luminant Cushion nie byla na mojej liscie zakupowej. Nie wiem jak wpadala mi do koszyka. Chyba chodzilo, zeby wydac okreslona sume, aby kwalifikowac sie na bezplatna wysylke ekspresem.

Wybralam jasniejszy z dwoch dostepnych odcieni, oznaczony jako numer 1 i tlumaczony jako taki czy siaki rozowy.

Pamietajac jak bardzo nierozowy byl rozowy Sulhwasoo, nie oczekiwalam cudow.



I didn't even open it right away when the package finally came.
But when I did open it, boy oh boy... I was left speechless. And those who know me and know how blunt and brutal my opinions can be, can confirm - I'm not speechless very often.

When I opened the box, the standard cushion set was revealed:

Nawet nie chcialo mi sie tego pudelka otwierac, kiedy w koncu przyszlo.
Ale jak juz otworzylam, to o rety! Cud, miod i orzeszki, po prostu.
I ci, ktorzy wiedza jak brutalne potrafia byc moje wypowiedzi o kosmetykach, moga potwierdzic, malo co mnie zachwyca.

Ale, krok po kroku...
Po otwarciu pudelka dostajemy typowy zestaw poduszkowy:

A very sleek and chic black and white compact, a cushion refill, and a leaflet. Sadly - all in Korean.

I must say, the compact was very impressive. Simple but elegant.

Piekny, minimalistyczny kompakt, paczka z refillem, i ulotka - niestety cala po koreansku.
Kompakt jest naprawde elegancki.

One minus here - keeping it clean is very, very difficult.

For those who are not sure what a cushion foundation is - it's a soft spongey cushion (or a soft cushioney sponge) saturated with foundation. You press the spongey cushion with an applicator and dab the foundation on your face. Simple, easy, convenient. 

To work with this application method cushion foundations are a lot lighter than usual foundations. Yet depending on the type, they can offer coverage ranging from very natural to more substantial.

And unlike other liquid foundations, cushions come in convenient compacts.

When we open this lovely compact, we get the usual cushion applicator puff.

Jeden minus tutaj - niemozliwe jest utrzymanie go w stanie nieskalanym przez dluzej niz 2 minuty. Niesamowicie latwo sie packa.

Dla tych, ktorzy nie sa pewni, czym sa podklady w poduszkach - to miekka gabczasta poduszka (lub poduszkowa gabka) nasaczona plynnym podkladem. Naciskasz na poduszke aplikatorkiem i ciap, ciap, ciap, nakladasz podklad na twarz. Prosto, latwo i wygodnie. Kazda ofiara pedzlowo-podkladowa da rade.

Aby taki rodzaj nakladania byl mozliwy, podklady poduszkowe sa duzo rzadszej konsystencji niz wiekszosc podkladow butelkowo-tubkowych. Ale w zaleznosci od rodzaju, daja krycie od naturalnego do bardziej wyrazistego.

Najpraktyczniejsza roznica jest to, ze pakowane sa w wygodne kompakty.

Kiedy otworzymy ten minimalistyczny kompakt, widzimy typowy poduszkowy aplikator.

Hanyul is one of the many Amore Pacific brands, and I think all their cushion puffs are white and blue.
I really hesitate to call this thing a "sponge", because this compares to a foundation sponge the same way that a Ducati 899 Panigale compares to your sister's scooter.

When you lift the puff and open the cushion lid, you see a sticker protecting the cushion's surface.

Hanyul to jedna z wielu marek produkowanych przez koncern Amore Pacific. Poduszki marek rodem z Amore Pacific maja aplikatory bialo-niebieskie.
Nie chce okreslac tego aplikatora jako "gabeczki", bo ma sie tak do typowej gabki do podkladu jak Ducati 899 Panigale do skuterka twojej siostry.

Kiedy podniesiemy aplikator i otworzymy wieczko, widzimy naklejke chroniaca poduszke wlasciwa.

You peel off the sticker and tah-dam!!!

Zrywamy naklejke i mamy to:

You have the famous Hanyul Luminant Cushion in "Light Pink" in all its glory.

I had not read any reviews of this cushion before buying it. I knew nothing of the magical advertising descriptions. I haven't seen a single commercial. I had no idea what to expect. Which in retrospect was a good thing.
If I had known how hyped this cushion was, I would have never bought it. Stupid me.
It just goes to prove that sometimes cosmetic products are hyped, because they are good.

I swiped a bit of the foundation on my arm:

Hanyul Luminant Cushion w odcieniu jasny roz w calej okazalosci.

Nie czytalam zadnych recenzji tej poduszki przed kupnem. Nie wiedzialam nic o obietnicach producenta. Nie widzialam zadnej reklamy. Nie mialam wiec pojecia czego moglam oczekiwac. W sumie, wyszlo mi to na dobre, bo jesli wiedzialabym jak tak poduszka byla reklamowana i jakie cuda byly obiecywane, to pewnie bym jej nigdy nie kupila.
Czasem jednak cuda na kiju sie sprawdzaja.

Pomazalam troche podkladu na przedramieniu:

This photo was taken in natural light and has not been modified in any way.

I was pleasantly surprised at how light the color was. I like testing foundations, BB and CC creams on my arm like that, because the skin tone there is nearly identical to my face.

I grabbed a sponge and, without expecting any miracles, I schmeared it out a bit.

And Holymotherofbatman!!! I sure as heck wasn't prepared for this:

Zdjecie bez filtrow i edycji w naturalnym swietle.

Bylam przyjemnie zaskoczona jak jasny byl ten odcien. Testuje podklady, kremy BB i CC na wewnetrznej czesci przedramienia, bo tam skora jest niemal takiego samego odcienia jak moja twarz.

Rozprowadzilam podklad i co ja widze????
Nie bylam na to w ogole przygotowana:

Again, no filters were applied to this photo. Taken in natural light.

It disappeared!!! The only way you can tell that something is there is by the fact that my green veins are also gone.

How is that even possible? Black magic?
Have I signed my soul over to the devil by purchasing this cushion foundation?

Highly probable, because this is just the first of many wonders.

This cushion is perfect for my skin type. I have dry skin and it gives me just the right amount of moisture without being overly wet.
Some people said it is still very dewy. That might be the case on oily complexions. On my dry face I get a perfect satin finish.
Some people were not happy with the coverage this cushion offers. I think it provides more substantial coverage than N type cushions from Hera and Iope.
When used with a primer it stays in perfect shape for over 8 hours. It doesn't separate and it doesn't change color when it oxidizes.

How is that even possible?
What is this thing? A gift from the gods of makeup?

But wait! There's more.

It dries fast. It doesn't make me break out. My skin feels soft and looks bright when I remove my makeup in the evening.

Znowu, zdjecie w naturalnym swietle bez filtrow.
Podklad zniknal. Zniknely tez moje zielone zyly, co jest jedynym znakiem, ze czyms sobie ramie posmarowalam.

Jak oni to zrobili? Czarna magia?
Czy sprzedalam dusze diablu kupujac ta poduszke i nie dostalam kopii cyrografu?

Bardzo mozliwe, bo poduszka ta jest pelna cudow.
Jest idealna dla mojego rodzaju cery. Mam sucha skore, i ta poducha daje mi tyle nawilzenia ile potrzeba, ale bez mokrego efektu.

Czytalam, ze niektore babki narzekaly, ze wykonczenie nadal bylo dla nich bardzo "dewy". Mozliwe, ze to wina ich cery, lub brak primera. Na mojej twarzy dostaje satynowe wykonczenie.
Niektore babki nie byly zadowolone z poziomu krycia tej poduszki. Nie wiem, moze oczekiwaly szpachli. Porownujac z poduszkami typu N Hery i Iope, Hanyul ma wieksze krycie.
Kladziony na baze siedzi na twarzy w perfekcyjnym stanie przez ponad 8 godzin.
Nie rozdziela sie, nie plackuje i nie zmienia koloru, kiedy sie utlenia.

Jak to w ogole mozliwe, ja sie pytam?
Co to jest to cudo?

Ale, ale, to nie wszystko.
Wysycha szybko. Nie powoduje wysypu syfow. I kiedy zmywam wieczorem makijaz, moja skora jest miekka i promienna.



There is one "but" here...

As with most Korean cosmetics, it's scented. I find the fragrance to be quite annoying. Yeah, it's fresh and vaguely citrusy (but don't quote me on it, I can't describe smells if my life depended on it).
Mercifully, it evaporates rather quickly.

Because in all other ways this cushion is simply perfect for me, I'm willing to forgive and forget about the scent. I just try not to breathe when I'm using it.
But, if you are sensitive to perfume, consider yourself warned.

Jest jedno "ale".
Jak prawie wszystkie koreanskie kosmetyki, ma dosyc silny zapach. Mnie on drazni. Tak, jest swiezy i taki jakis cytrusowaty (ale mozliwe, ze nie, bo nie umiem okreslac zapachow).
Na szczescie ulatnia sie dosyc szybko.

To chyba jedyny minus tej poduszki. Jako ze jest moim idealem pod kazdym innym wzgledem, jestem w stanie wybaczyc ten perfumik. Staram sie nie oddychac, kiedy nakladam ja na twarz.

Ale jesli ktos jest wrazliwy na perfum, to lojalnie ostrzegam, moga byc problemy.

The leaflet was all in Korean and as such useless for me.

Some sites gave a brief descriptions of the most touted ingredients, however, as I am not really all that up to date with what does what, I can't tell you what in this cushion is responsible for its magical properties.

The full ingredient list appears here courtesy of Agata from Agathblog. Thank you so much for translating it!!!

Ulotka jest po koreansku, wiec na wiele mi sie nie przydala.
Niektore strony internetowe daja opisy co bardziej chwytliwych skladnikow, ale ja sie nie znam, wiec nie jestem w stanie powiedziec, ktore z nich sa odpowiedzialne za moc tej poduszki.

Sklad zamieszczony tutaj jest dzieki uprzejmosci Agathblog. Bardzo dziekuje za przetlumaczenie.

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Phenyl Trimethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Arbutin, Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Sodium Chloride, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Panax Ginseng Root Water, Aluminum Hydroxide, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Stearic Acid, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Dimethicone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Adenosine, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Mother of Pearl, Glycerin, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Polysorbate 80, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydrolyzed Ginseng Saponins, Sodium Polyaspartate, Phytosphingosine, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate, Aspergillus Ferment, CI 77492, CI 77491, CI 77499, Fragrance

As you can see, this cushion claims to provide sun protection as well. SPF50+ and PA+++.

However, as I always tell you and Alice from Skin and Beauty Story can confirm, you still need to use your usual sunblock. The amount of foundation you put on your face is simply not enough to offer adequate sun protection benefits.

Where can you buy this wonder?
Several places offer it, among them W2Beauty.

Jak widac, poduszka ta ma filtr przeciwsloneczny SPF 50+ PA+++.
Ale jak ja zawsze twierdze i Alice ze Skin and Beauty Story moze w 100% potwierdzic, sama poducha nie da wystarczajacej ochrony przed sloncem. Nadal trzeba uzywac oddzielnego filtru, bo ilosc podkladu jaka nalozymy na twarz jest po prostu za mala, aby miec jakiekolwiek wlasciwosci chroniace nas przed sloncem.

Gdzie kupic to cudo?
Kilka sklepow internetowych ma poduszke Hanyul w ofercie, w tym rowniez W2Beauty.

If you are interested in purchasing this cushion, or any other Korean beauty product, you can order it online from Alice of W2Beauty. By clicking on the link, or the banner in the sidebar and using this registration code: 182991708, you can receive $5.00 off your first order (above $30.00). Free worldwide shipping directly from Korea, and lots of samples and other freebies with every order. Enjoy!!! 

Jesli chcecie kupic ta poduszke, lub inne koreanskie kosmetyki z wiarygodnego zrodla, mozna to zrobic zamawiajac od Alice z W2Beauty.
Klikajac na ten link, lub w banner w pasku obok i wpisujac ten kod przy rejestracji: 182991708, otrzymacie $5.00 znizki przy pierwszym zamowieniu (powyzej $30.00).
Wysylka darmowa, prosto z Korei, na caly swiat, a w kazdym zamowieniu duzo probek.
Milych zakupow!

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Esprique Smooth on Liquid Foundation UV

You know those moments when you look at something and can't help but scratch your head and think "WTF?" and "how did it ever make it past the doodles on a piece of paper stage of product design?"
Were all the people in that creative meeting brain dead? Or perhaps there was no creative meeting at all? What about focus groups? Consumer testing? Were they all done under a rock in another galaxy? Or perhaps only half-blind women over 80 were invited to participate?

Those were the questions that ran through my head today during my very first encounter with Esprique's stamping foundation a.k.a. Smooth on Liquid Foundation UV.

Hmmm... sometimes companies mean well, but somewhere along the way, from the drawing board to the store shelf, things go horribly wrong. This is not one of those times.

Sometimes companies get a really bad idea, but instead of discarding it at the first project meeting, they inexplicably run with it. And Esprique Smooth on Liquid Foundation UV is a prime example of what happens in such cases.

Chyba kazdy, z jakiejs okazji, mial taki moment, ze po prostu drapal sie po glowie i jedyne co mogl powiedziec, to "co to, u diabla, jest?" i "jak to w ogole mozliwe, ze ktos tego gniota wyprodukowal?"
Czy w ogole ktos tego gniota przetestowal? Gdzie i jak? Czy robily to 80-letnie babcie, ktore swoje ostatnie kosmetyki kupily 20 lat temu?

To mniej wiecej co sobie pomyslalam stojac dzis twarza w twarz przed podkladem do stemplowania, czyli Esprique Smooth on Liquid Foundation UV.

Czasem firmy maja dobre checi, ale cos po drodze od projektu do wykonania sie im poknoci. To nie jest przypadek Esprique.

Czasem firma wpadnie na naprawde durny pomysl, ale zamiast pozbyc sie go w trybie natychmiastowym, wchodzi on do produkcji. Ten Esprique Smooth on Liquid Foundation UV jest doskonalym przykladem takiego wlasnie stanu rzeczy.

When I saw a preview of this product on Haru's blog, it looked to me like Japan's answer to the Korean cushion foundation phenomenon.

Today, after playing with this "cushion" at the store, I am convinced that was indeed the case. But instead of simply copying the Korean design (with enough small changes to call it its own), Kose (the company behind the Esprique brand) assumed that Japanese women are stupid.

Sad.

But this is not the first time that Esprique botched a Korea-inspired product.

Earlier this year it gave us the magical Cool BB Spray:

Kiedy po raz pierwszy zobaczylam ten podklad na blogu Haru, wygladal mi on jak japonska odpowiedz na fenomen koreanskiego podkladu w poduszce.

Dzis bawiac sie ta japonska "poduszka" w sklepie, jestem przekonana, ze taki wlasnie byl zamiar producenta. Ale zamiast po prostu skopiowac koreanski dizajn (z wystarczajaca iloscia malych zmian, zeby mozna bylo nazwac go "oryginalnym"), Kose (firma, ktora produkuje linie Esprique) wyszla chyba z zalozenia, ze Japonki to idiotki.

Smutne...

Ale to nie pierwszy raz kiedy Esprique, zainspirowane Korea, wypuscilo na rynek totalnego gniota.

Wiosna tego roku ukazal sie w sklepach Cool BB Spray:

Which seems to have been inspired by Korean products with Thermal Protection Factor.
And it's all great and wonderful until you actually try this spray and see its color.
Despite what the promo photos show, this stuff seemed to have been formulated for people a lot darker than the average Japanese woman.

I wanted to try it, I was willing to spend the money. Unfortunately, I am not into spray-on tan look. Because that's exactly what the color looked like - like a cheap, fake, yellow tan.
That was back in May of this year. Now we have September and all summer long you could see this spray bundled in value-packs with other Esprique products. Obviously, it is not selling on its own.

But that was not enough for Kose, it seems, because now they bring us this idiotic Esprique stamping foundation.

Spray ten wydaje sie byc zainspirowany koreanskimi produktami z Thermal Protection Factor.
I wszystko byloby pieknie i cacy dopoki nie zobaczylam koloru tego cuda.
Zdjecia promocyjne pokazuja Japonke biala jak dziewicza lilije, ale to zasluga nie spray'u, ale photoshopa.

Chcialam go kupic, mialam dobre checi. Ale niestety nie dla mnie spray-on zolta opalenizna w kolorku jak znalazl dla blachar z Nowej Huty.

To bylo w maju. Teraz mamy wrzesien i przez cale lato mozna bylo kupic ten spray jako dodatek do innych produktow firmy Kose. Czyli wychodzi na to, ze sam z siebie nie sprzedaje sie zbyt dobrze.

Ale Kose malo sie tym przejmuje, bo teraz wypuszczaja na rynek ten nieszczesny podklad do stemplowania.

Clearly inspired by a Korean cushion foundation product, this abomination was designed by somebody who heard of cushions, but never actually held one in his hands.

It's a foundation jar with a screw-on cap (how quaintly retro). Inside the jar we will see a round elastic net. The foundation is under the net.

To apply the foundation you get a gigantic blob of sponge shaped like a stamp.

Widac wyraznie, ze cudo to bylo inspirowane koreanska poduszka. Ale niestety, zostalo zaprojektowane przez kogos, kto poduszki znal tylko ze slyszenia i nigdy takowej w rece nie mial.

Esprique daje nam sloiczek z podkladem zamykany na zakretke. W sloiczku znajduje sie elastyczna siatka. Podklad siedzi luzem pod siatka.

Nakladac mamy ten podklad gigantyczna gabka w ksztalcie stempla.

If the sample I saw today is any indication, this is not the best quality sponge, either. I've seen better sponges in multi-packs from 100 yen stores.

You're supposed to apply the foundation like this:

Jesli to co macalam dzis w sklepie to rzeczywiscie gabka do nakladania tego podkladu, to jest ona niestety bardzo kiepskiej jakosci. Lepsze gabki mozna znalezc w multi-pakach z Daiso.

Podklad mamy nakladac w ten sposob:

So does this Smooth on Liquid Foundation UV have any good points?
Actually yes, it does. It comes in seven shades. Compared to the usual two or, in rare cases three, Korean cushion shades, Esprique is the winner here.

But that might be its only good point.
The application method sucks.

Let me repeat it again to make sure everyone gets it - this stamping fiasco sucks.

Why? As cushion foundations are very thin, watery almost, and their sponges are not really true sponges at all, the product goes on the face smoothly and seamlessly.

This effect is impossible to achieve with this tacky chunk of a sponge. No matter how carefully, how gently and how precisely I was stamping today, it was still stamping. The foundation was too thick to spread evenly on the skin, so it just sat there waiting for better days. Blending it with the stamping sponge didn't help either. Here you'd need a proper Beauty Blender, but then it wouldn't be stamping, right?
The consistency of this foundation is completely unsuitable for this application method. Despite its name, the foundation is not liquid enough. After stamping, you still need to blend it out and blend it in somehow.

On the other hand, I suppose, if the foundation was more liquidy, it would be eaten up by the stupid stamping sponge in alarming quantities. Here it shows how important the design of the cushion sponge is. The geniuses at Kose obviously never looked at a silky Korean cushion sponge up close and personal.

Wiec czy ten Esprique Smooth on Liquid Foundation UV ma jakies dobre strony?
Tak, ma.
Dostepny bedzie w siedmiu odcieniach.
W porownaniu z koreanskimi poduszkami, gdzie zazwyczaj mamy dwa odcienie, czasem trzy, Esprique wygrywa.

Ale to chyba jedyny plus Esprique.

Nakladanie tego podkladu to jakis koszmar.
Powtorze raz jeszcze - koszmar.

Dlaczego?

Koreanskie poduszkowe podklady sa bardzo wodniste i ich gabeczki sa specjalnie zaprojektowane do nakladania takiej konsystencji. Podklad idzie na twarz ladniutko i rowniutko.

Taki efekt jest niestety niemozliwy przy tej tandetnej gabce do stemplowania. Bez wzgledu jak dokladnie, starannie i delikatnie stemplowalam, to wygladalo to na stemplowanie. Podklad siedzial sobie na skorze i czekal na lepsze czasy.
Do blendowania potrzebny bylby Beauty Blender, a tej gabce do Beauty Blendera niestety daleko, bardzo daleko.

Konsystencja tego podkladu po prostu nie nadaje sie do nakladania w ten sposob. Choc w nazwie figuruje "liquid" to do plynnej konsystencji mu baaaaardzo daleko.
Ale gdyby byl rzadszy, to wtedy niestety zostalby wchloniety przez ta okropna gabke. I tutaj wychodzi na to, ze geniusze w Kose nigdy koreanskiej gabki w kompakcie poduszkowym na zywo nie widzieli.

And the saddest part of all this?

Esprique has really good foundations. It's a solid mid-range brand and I like their color make up a lot. I am sure this foundation in itself is also very good.
But stuck in a jar with a net on top and applied with a huge stamper, it doesn't live up to its full potential.

And I'm also going to ignore the question of just how a woman is supposed to carry this "compact" and sponge in her purse for touchups...

This abomination is going to be released mass market in Japan on October 16th.

A najsmutniejsze w tym wszystkim jest to, ze Esprique ma naprawde dobre podklady. To solidna linia sredniopolkowa i lubie ich kolorowe kosmetyki.
Jestem pewna, ze ten podklad sam w sobie jest rowniez dobry.
Ale wepchniety w sloiczek z siatka i nakladany stemplem nie ma okazji, aby pokazac swoj potencjal.

Pomine milczeniem kwestie tego, jak rozwiazac problem noszenia tego sloiczka i stempla w torebce na poprawki makijazu w ciagu dnia...

Ten koszmarek wchodzi do masowej sprzedazy w Japonii 16 pazdziernika.

Sunblocks 2014

Sunblocks are a controversial topic. And it always surprises me, because even the most ignorant person realizes that hot objects can burn us. And even the most ignorant person can tell you that the sun is, indeed, very hot. There's more to it, of course, hot is the least of our worries when it comes to the sun. But at least the heat is something we can feel. The heat is just a warning of the sun's true destructive power. And even a child can tell you that hot objects should be avoided. Else you get burned.
So if someone touches a hot iron, or pours boiling water on themselves for fun and pleasure, he's either into some really kinky shit that I want to know nothing about, or has serious cognitive problems.
Yet millions of people who would tell you that touching a hot iron is idiotic, voluntarily let themselves be fried by the sun. Hmmm...

And that brings us to sunblocks... There's this mistaken belief amongst those millions of people, who like to slowly barbecue themselves, that if they slather themselves in sunblock, then it's ok. The sun is not going to hurt them then. Hmmm again...

And then, there are those, who don't believe that sunblocks are necessary, or needed, to protect us from the sun's deadly rays. They claim there isn't enough scientific proof. Well, you know what? There are people out there who claim there isn't enough scientific proof to support the theory of evolution, either. Ignorance is truly bliss.

And then, there is the question of safety, because there are people out there, who will tell you that sunblocks are full of chemicals that have the potential to kill us. So does aspirin, but they conveniently forget that fact. Hmmm...

Filtry to kontrowersyjny temat. I dziwi mnie to, poniewaz nawet osoba sprawna inaczej doskonale wie, ze gorace przedmioty moga cie poparzyc. I nawet osoba sprawna inaczej powie ci, ze slonce jest gorace. Oczywiscie, to uproszczenie, temperatura to akurat najmniejsze zmartwienie, jesli chodzi o slonce. Ale temperature przynajmniej mozemy poczuc. To nas ostrzega, ze mozemy sobie zrobic kuku. Kazde dziecko to wie.
Wiec jesli lubisz sie przypiekac, badz wylewac na siebie wrzatek dla przyjemnosci i rozrywki, to w zasadzie nie moja sprawa. Gorsze zboczenia sie zdarzaja.
Ale przecietny czlowiek, bez zapedow S&M, wzdryga sie na takie pomysly.
Jednak miliony tych przecientych ludzi z wlasnej, nieprzymuszonej woli, grilluja wlasne ciala na sloncu. No ja wiem, ze miesko z grilla pachnie i smakuje slicznie, ale tu chyba nie o to chodzi. Hmmm...

I tak dochodzimy do filtrow. Wielu z tych ludzi, ktorzy uwielbiaja powolny ruszt na sloncu, jest blednie przekonanych, ze jesli beda uzywac filtrow SPF, to slonce nie zrobi im krzywdy. Drugie hmmm...

Choc nie wiem co lepsze?
Bo sa przeciez i tacy, ktorzy w ogole nie wierza w efektywnosc flitrow. Twierdza, ze nie ma wystarczajaco jednoznacznych naukowych dowodow, ktore potwierdzilyby, ze filtry naprawde chronia nas przed sloncem. Hmmm... Wiecie co? Sa i tacy, ktorzy twierdza, ze nie ma wystarczajaco jednoznacznych naukowych dowodow, ktore potwierdzilyby teorie ewolucji... Na szczescie glupota nie boli.

I wreszcie jest jeszcze kwestia bezpieczenstwa, bo sa ludzie, ktorzy powiedza ci, ze filtry sa pelne makabrycznych skladnikow chemicznych, ktore moga nas zabic. Aspiryna tez moze nas zabic, ale o tym ci maniacy chemicznego bezpieczenstwa juz jakos wola nie pamietac.

My last year's favorites:
Ulubiency zeszlego roku:

I'm not going to explain how sunblocks work, you can get that from wikipedia. Nor am I going to explain why and how the sun damages our bodily organs (yes, skin is an organ, the largest one we have). That you can also either google or find in a physics textbook (hint, look for the chapter on electromagnetic radiation).

I am going to tell you why I use sunblocks and what they do (or, in this case, don't do) for me.

My sunblock adventure started when being treated for a horrible case of adult acne in my late 20s, early 30s. My doctor said flat out, you are taking powerful photo-sensitive meds. You need to avoid the sun at all costs. And if you have to go out, please, for the love of everything that is dear, use sun protection. And she handed me a tube of something that was thick and thoroughly nasty.

Yet the daily habit of putting sunblock on my face took hold and when the adult acne was long gone and the meds no longer needed, I continued to use sun protection. My face can thank me now. From the perspective of the last 15 or so years, I must say that it's been definitely worth it.

You see, the trick to sunblocks is that you need to use them daily for years. And only when you finally hit your middle age, that's when you start seeing visible results. It takes patience. And maybe that's why so many, otherwise perfectly sensible and skincare smart, women tend to give up on sunblocks so fast and so early. But they are mostly young and don't know what us, old broads over 40 know. That those young ones are going to regret their stupidity later on. You can bet your wrinkles on it.

Nie bede wyjasniac jak filtry dzialaja, od tego jest wikipedia. Nie bede tez wyjasniac w jaki sposob slonce niszczy nasze cialo.
Opowiem, dlaczego *ja* uzywam filtrow i co one dla mnie robia.

Moja przygoda z filtrami zaczela sie kiedy walczylam z bardzo zawzietym przypadkiem doroslego tradziku (koniec 20-stki, poczatek 30-stki). Pani dermatolog powiedziala po prostu, ze lekarstwa, ktore biore, zrobia mnie bardzo wrazliwa na dzialanie promieni slonecznych. Musialam unikac slonca za wszelka cene. A jesli unikac nie bylam w stanie, to mialam sie smarowac tym - tu dala mi tubke jakiego paskudztwa. Bylo ciezkie, geste i smierdzialo.

Tradzik zostal wyleczony, ale codzienny nawyk smarowania twarzy filtrami pozostal. Smarowalam sie gorliwie, codziennie, przez prawie 15 lat. Moja twarz moze mi teraz podziekowac.

Niestety, aby zobaczyc wyrazne rezultaty uzywania filtrow, trzeba sie smarowac latami. Dlugofalowo. Zaczac mlodo, a na wyniki poczekac do 40-stki. Nie kazdy jest tak cierpliwy. I moze wlasnie dlatego tyle kobiet, ktore twierdza, ze dbaja o cere pod kazdym wzgledem, tak szybko zniecheca sie do uzywania filtrow. Ale one sa mlode, nie wiedza tego, co my stare baby, znamy z autopsji. I zaloze ci sie kazda zmarszczke, ze te mlode nie-filtrowe, beda swojego lenistwa, badz glupoty, pozniej zalowaly.

Allie is a popular sunblock line (made by Kanebo) in Japan:
Allie to popularna linia filtrow firmy Kanebo:

One prominent Polish beauty blogger was very open on her blog on why she stopped using sunblocks on her body and started using lower SPF factor products on her face. My first reaction was "to each its own".

Oddly enough the same week that woman's post appeared, the US Surgeon General advocated the use of sunblocks with high SPF factors. But hey, what does some American dude who graduated from Northwestern and Harvard know? It's so much easier to trust your friendly beauty blogger who says she is not convinced that sunblocks are the answer, and oh gosh, they might even be harmful. Because she did her research. Faceplam.

And then, because my readers know me as pro-SPF50, pro-PA++++, the emails with questions started pouring into my inbox.

And that's the reason for this post. At the same time, it's also my contribution to the series Kosmetyczne Skarby hosted by the lovely Hexxana.

The question of whether it's sensible not to use sunblocks on exposed body parts and to use a relatively low SPF factor on the face, I decided to direct to somebody a lot more qualified to answer it than me. Namely, my dermatologist.

She likened not using proper sun protection, or not using sun protection properly, to driving in a car without fastening your seat belt. Because I don't need seat belts, if I drive carefully, right? So I don't need a high SPF sunblock, if I stay out of the sun, right?

She also extended the seat belt comparison to make another, quite interesting, point.
Just like buckling up doesn't mean we can start driving around like suicidal maniacs high on Red Bull and acid (everybody knows that seat belts are for extra protection only, right? you still need to drive carefully and obey speed limits), using sunblocks doesn't mean it's ok to go out in the sun and fry your body to third degree burns with a side order of skin cancer. And yet that's exactly what so many people do. They mistakenly believe that slathering a thick layer of SPF50 somehow makes sunbathing OK.

Well, you know what? Let them think that. And let them despair at the tragic state of their skin once they hit their 40s and 50s.

For the rest of us, who know that sunblocks offer that extra level of protection (similar to seat belts in cars, and bike helmets for cyclists) while avoiding direct sun exposure (while driving carefully, while biking safely), it's just a matter of common sense.

And because sunblocks are an important part of our skincare routine, it's worth sharing what we use, what works and what doesn't.

And though in the Northern hemisphere our summer is technically already over, here are my sunblock picks for 2014. And FYI, I use sun protection year round.

Pewna slynna polska blogerka kosmetyczno-lajfstajlowa otwarcie przyznala sie na swoim blogu, ze przestala uzywac filtrow na cialo i ze na twarz zaczela uzywac filtra z przecietnym SPF (juz nie pamietam dokladnie, chyba 25 czy 30). Moja pierwsza reakcja bylo "jej sprawa".

Zeby bylo jednak smieszniej, w tym samym tygodniu amerykanski Surgeon General wydal oficjalne oswiadczenie na temat ochrony przed sloncem, w ktorym zalecal uzywanie filtrow z wysokim SPF. Ale co on tam wie? Skonczyl Harvard i Northwestern i jest najwazniejszym autorytetem zdrowotnym w USA, ale ja go nie znam. On bloga kosmetycznego nie prowadzi, a ja wole wierzyc slowom mojej ulubionej blogerki. Bo ona zna sie na rzeczy, zrobila wlasny risercz i nie jest przekonana o efektywnosci filtrow. I twierdzi, ze nawet moga byc szkodliwe. Faceplam.

Jako ze chyba wszyscy wiedza, ze ja glosze ewangelie wedlug sw filtra SPF 50+ PA++++, sypnelo mi mailami z pytaniami co o tym sadze. Pytania zignorowalam (bardzo przepraszam), bo nie uwazam sie za osobe odpowiednio wykwalifikowana, zeby na nie odpowiadac. Zamiast tego, skierowalam je do kogos, kto zajmuje sie problemami skory zawodowo, czyli mojej pani dermatolog.

Ona porownala nieuzywanie filtrow, lub uzywanie ich niepoprawnie, do jazdy bez zapietych pasow bezpieczenstwa. Bo po co, skoro jezdze ostroznie? Wiec po co mi filtr, skoro unikam slonca?

Ale jej analogia miala rowniez druga czesc.

Kiedy zapinamy pasy w samochodzie, to nie znaczy, ze wolno nam jezdzic jak wariaci na haju (bo pasy to tylko ochrona dodatkowa, nadal musimy byc ostrozni za kierownica). Tak samo kiedy smarujemy sie filtrami, to nie znaczy, ze mozemy bezkarnie smazyc sie na sloncu do skwarka, z rakiem skory jako gratisowy dodatek. A tak wlasnie wiele ludzi postepuje. Mysla, ze skoro wysmarowali sie SPF50, to moga sie opalac.

Ale niech sobie mysla. Pogadamy znowu, kiedy beda po 40-stce.

Dla reszty z nas, to oczywiste, ze filtry to tylko dodatkowa ochrona, tak dla bezpieczenstwa. Tak samo jak pasy w samochodzie, czy kask dla rowerzysty. Nadal musimy unikac slonca (jezdzic ostroznie).

Wiem, ze wiele moich czytelniczek uwaza podobnie, i dlatego warto jest dzielic sie naszymi doswiadczeniami odnosnie filtrow. Stad tez ten wpis. Jest on rowniez czescia serii Kosmetyczne Skarby u Hexxany.

Wiec choc lato na polnocnej polkuli juz sie skonczylo, to tutaj moje filtry na rok 2014.
(Tak, uzywam filtrow przez caly rok).

On the left we have a very serviceable Hada Labo UV Creamy Gel SPF50+ / PA++++, which I use only for my body. It's the only Hada Labo sunblock that I find acceptable. But it's too sticky and dewy for my face. And when I tried it, it broke me out to the point of madness. On my arms and legs, however - perfect.

Po lewej mamy zwykly Hada Labo UV Creamy Gel SPF50+ / PA++++, ktory uzywalam jako filtr na cialo. To jedyny filtr Hada Labo, ktory u mnie jeszcze jakos ujdzie. Ale jest za lepiacy i za mokry na twarz. Kiedy eksperymentowalam z nim na twarzy, skutki byly oplakane - wysyp jakich od lat nie widzialam. Ale na rece i nogi  sprawdza sie swietnie.

Good points: it's cheap - around 800 yen plus tax.

Bad points: see above. 

Plusy: tani, okolo 800 jenow plus tax.
Minusy: wyliczone powyzej.

***

Next up we have Nov UV Shield EX SPF50+ / PA++++. I very briefly tried this sunblock last year (my friend was a fan) and I kind of liked it. So last May when I was shopping for sun protection, I decided to give it a chance.
It was an instant hit. Formulated specifically for sensitive and breakout prone skin, it has saved me this summer.

Kolejny zawodnik to Nov UV Shield EX SPF50+ / PA++++. Probowalam go na szybko w zeszlym roku (uzywala go moja kolezanka) i wydawal mi sie fajny. Wiec w maju tego roku, kiedy poszlam na zakupy filtrowe, dalam mu szanse.
Natychmiastowy hit. Formula specjalnie dla cery wrazliwej i sklonnej do wysypow. Po prostu uratowal mi twarz w lecie tego roku.

It's perfect for humid weather, or I suppose, for oily and combination skin in normal climate. It's nearly matte, doesn't leave a white cast and is super gentle. I used it extreme weather conditions (over 30 degrees Celsius and 99% humidity, in direct sunlight, while wearing a hat, though) and it survived buckets of sweat, held my makeup together, didn't break me out, and offered truly outstanding levels of protection - not a speck of tan on my face.

Jest swietny na wilgotne, parne, upalne dni. Mysle tez, ze sprawdzilby sie znakomicie dla cery tlustej i mieszanej podczas zwykej pogody. Jest niemal matowy, nie bieli sie i jest bardzo delikatny.
Mialam go na twarzy podczas ekstremalnej pogody (ponad 30 stopni i wilgotnosc 99%, bylam w pelnym sloncu, choc na glowie mialam kapelusz). Wytrzymal strumienie potu, makijaz mi nie splynal, nie wysypalo mnie, i co najlepsze - zero, absolutnie zero opalenizny na mojej twarzy.

Good points: see above.
Bad points: it's pricey - about 2500 yen plus tax.

Plusy: zobacz powyzej.
Minusy: cena, tubka okolo 2500 jenow plus tax.

***

Next up is Anessa from Shiseido. Anessa is a classic suncare line that does not need any introductions in Japan. And as Shiseido products are usually very hit or miss for me, Anessa has been consistently great.

Kolejne filtry to Anessa firmy Shiseido. Anessa to klasyk przeciwsloneczny, ktory jest znany chyba kazdej Japonce.
Produkty Shiseido sa troche w kratke dla mnie, ale Anessa to stuprocentowy hit.

The small tube, that's a promotional size of Anessa Perfect Essence Sunscreen. Next to it we have Anessa Whitening UV Protector. Both SPF 50+ / PA++++.
Light, delicate, with zero white cast. And with superb sun protection power. I have used these two nearly all summer long in very harsh sun conditions. When I had to go outside and spend a long time in the sun, Anessa would provide the heavy duty protection I needed. And it worked. Not a speck of suntan on my arms.

Good points: see above.
Bad points: can be a bit pricey.

Mala tubka to promocyjna wielkosc Anessa Perfect Essence Sunscreen. Obok mamy pelnowymiarowa Anessa Whitening UV Protector. Oba lekkie, delikatne, nie biela sie, maja SPF50+ i PA++++. Super ochrona przed sloncem. Uzywalam w lecie podczas silnego slonca. Zrobilo, co mialo zrobic. Czyli - chronilo. Zero sladow slonca na skorze.

Plusy: wymienione powyzej.
Minusy: cena nie nalezy do najtanszych.

***

And now it's time for Alice:

I czas na Alicje:

DHC Suncut Q10 50+ Aqua Gel - seriously, they couldn't come up with a longer name?
I admit, I bought this SPF 50+ / PA++++ sunblock just because I thought the packaging was cute.
Luckily, the product inside didn't disappoint me either.

It's a very light gel, though it might still be too rich to use on the face for some people. I use it on my arms and legs and other exposed body parts that need to be protected from the sun.

DHC Suncut Q10 Aqua Gel SPF50+ / PA++++ juz chyba nie mogli wymyslec dluzszej nazwy? Kupilam, bo podobalo mi sie opakowanie, przyznaje sie bez bicia. Na szczescie produkt mnie nie rozczarowal.

To lekki zel, ale nadal moze byc zbyt tresciwy na twarz dla niektorych ludzi. Ja uzywalam na ramionach, nogach, itepe.

Dries clear to a satiny finish, doesn't leave any white cast, just another solid Japanese sunblock. This one also touts its skincare benefits.

Good points: see above, reasonable price (around 1500 yen, if I remember correctly)
Bad points: definitely product mainly for dry skin. Other skin types might be disappointed.

Wysycha do satynowego wykonczenia, nie bieli sie, po prostu solidny japonski filtr. Ten rowniez chwali sie swoimi wlasciwosciami pielegnujacymi.

Plusy: powyzej, cena przystepna, okolo 1500 jenow, jesli dobrze pamietam.
Minusy: cery inne niz normalna i sucha moga byc rozczarowane.

***

Next up is Astablanc Day Care Perfection UV SPF50+ / PA++++:

Kolejny filtr to Astablanc Day Care Perfection UV SPF50+ / PA++++:

Astablanc is a mid-range skincare line, from parent company Kose, with products that feature astaxanthin, among other things, as well as brightening and skin-tone evening qualities.
This year, I must say, this little tube is my Holy Grail sunblock.
Soft, light, moisturizing, non-sticky, delicate, strong (yes, it's both delicate and strong), it's a facial cream dressed up as heavy-duty sun protection. This is the type of sunblock that high-end western companies try to replicate and fail time and again.

Good points: see above.
Bad points: it's expensive.

Astablanc to linia ze sredniej polki w kierunku w gore firmy Kose. Produkty Astablanc, jak sama nazwa wskazuje, chwala sie astaksantyna w skladzie, i maja ponoc rozjasniajace, wyrownujace koloryt wlasciwosci.

W tym roku ta tubka to moj filtrowy KWC.

Mieciutki, leciutki, nawilzajacy, nie lepiacy, delikatny, silny (tak delikatny i silny), to raczej krem do twarzy maskujacy sie jako filtr przeciwsloneczny.
To dokladnie ten rodzaj filtru, ktory firmy zachodnie probuja zreplikowac, ale nie bardzo im to wychodzi.

Plusy: powyzej.
Minusy: cena.

***

And last, but not least, we have a spray:

I na koniec mamy filtr w sprayu:

DHC Suncut Q10 Spray SPF50 / PA +++. Somebody I know (and who shall remain namless), who saw this sunblock, and of course immediately had to try it out, was so taken with the sprayable form of sun protection that he simply said "it's mine now". And as long as you spray it on you hands first, it can be applied to the face as well.

Some people complained about the scent. Hmmm... That leads me to believe that there might be two versions of this product - one for Japan, and another for overseas markets, because it doesn't really smell at all.

Good points: so easy!
Bad points: can't spray it directly on the face.

DHC Suncut Q10 Spray SPF50 / PA+++ zostal mi zwiniety przez kogos, kto lubi podbierac mi moje kosmetyki pielegnacyjne. Sprobowal i przepadl, oznajmil, ze teraz ten jest jego.
Mozna go uzywac na twarzy, ale trzeba najpierw psiknac na rece, rozmazac na dloniach i potem smarowac na twarzy. Tego procesu nie lubie, wiec po prostu psikam sie na reszcie ciala.

Czytalam na zachodnich blogach, ze niektorym przeszkadzal zapach. Hmmm... Mozliwe wiec, ze sa dwie wersje tego produktu - jedna na rynek japonski, a druga na zachodni. Bo ta tutaj to wcale mi nie pachniala.

Plusy: latwy w obsludze!
Minusy: nie mozna psikac bezposrednio na twarz.

***

Today, I got two more sun protection products, both Lancome UV Expert XL-Shield, Japanese market versions. Hopefully soon I will be able to tell you a little bit more about them.

And of course, all the cushion foundations I use also have a high SPF factor (usually SPF50 +), but since we use such a small amount of the product, it doesn't really provide any substantial sun protection. So even though your bb cream or foundation lists a high SPF factor, remember that you still need to use a separate sunblock for effective protection from the sun.

Dzis kupilam dwa inne produkty do ochrony przed sloncem, oba to Lancome UV Expert XL-Shield, made in Japan, specjalnie na rynek japonski. Nie moge nic konkretnego na ich temat na razie powiedziec, ale jak pouzywam, to na pewno podziele sie moimi wrazeniami.

I oczywiscie moje podklady w poduszkach rowniez posiadaja wysoki SPF, ale poniewaz uzywamy tak niewielka ilosc produktu, nie da on nam wystarczajacej ochrony. Wiec nawet jesli dany krem BB czy podklad chwali sie swoim SPF, to i tak musimy sie smarowac osobnym filtrem dla pelnej ochrony przed sloncem.

A jakich filtrow Wy uzywacie?

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