How to Prevent Acne

Nothing is worse than waking up in the morning to 

find out a large pimple on your face!

Source: Illustration by cheerfulnuts

We all get acne at some point in our life. The breakout of acne is often noticeable during puberty, but adults may have acne problems too. It’s hard to pinpoint the real cause of acne.  Genetics, hormones, and some dietary factors yet to be determined might play a role.

 

What is Acne?

Before I go into details how to prevent acne, you should first understand how it develops. Our skin has pores with hair follicles. Our skin naturally has oil to act as a natural barrier. The sebaceous glands are responsible for the oil or sebum production. Sometimes, these glands produce more sebum than necessary. The sebum, plus the dead skin cells, gets clogged in the pores. A trapped sebum leads to the formation of whiteheads or blackheads. Sometimes they go away by themselves, gradually releasing the trapped substances. At other times, rupture occurs along the follicular wall, leading to inflammation. Red bump starts to appear around the pore. A bump on the surface that gets infected is called a pimple, whereas a blockage that occurs deep in the pore becomes a cyst.

According to the Mayo Clinic website, there are three factors responsible for acne development:

1. overproduction of sebum,
2. irritation
3. build up of bacteria.

Apparently, if you want to prevent acne, you should watch out for these three culprits. I’ll elaborate on these later.

Treatment for Acne

Topical treatments such as benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid address to acne problems by dealing with bacteria and sebum. These medications dry out excess oil and remove dead skin cells. Benzoyl Peroxide prevents the build up of P. acnes bacteria whereas Salicylic Acid cuts through grease and promotes skin peeling. They are available over-the-counter and are often included in cosmetic products such as soaps and facial wash as active ingredients. 

How to Prevent Breakouts

Dealing with acne can start at home. Follow a proper skin care 

regimen and choose your products carefully to help prevent acne.

Source: Photo by Adam Borkowski/Dreamstime

Dealing with acne can start at home. By just adapting proper skin care methods and some good habits, you can help prevent or lessen your acne. Let’s first take a look on the three contributing factors of acne development:

Overproduction of sebum

Some people have oily skin. If you are one of them, you should follow a good skin care regimen. Wash your face with a mild cleanser twice daily (washing more than needed could do more harm than good). After washing, use an alcohol-free toner to remove excess oil and dead skin cells. Slather on a light moisturizer afterwards. Remember that despite having an oily face, you still need to do this step as this will help retain the needed moisture for your skin. Other than this routine, watch out for your stress level too. More stress equals more sebum production. Learn some stress management techniques to avoid compromising your skin and prevent acne.

Irritation

Follicular walls rupture when irritated. Vigorous rubbing and scrubbing irritates the skin. So avoid rubbing your face while towelling after wash. Instead, pat it dry. Be gentle to your face, it is delicate. If you have extra sensitive skin, aggressive mechanical exfoliation might be too harsh. Consider using products with alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) or beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) ingredients for a gentler peeling method. Be aware where your breakout tends to occur. If it occurs on one same spot, it may be due to your habits. Do you rest one side of your face on the pillow while sleeping? Are you frequently using the telephone? Resting your skin against these things causes irritation too. Watch out for your beauty products. Products with fragrances usually irritate skin. Fragrance-free, non-comedogenic, oil-free, and water-based are the labels you should look for in a product to prevent acne breakouts. Check your hair products labels as well, especially when your hair is always in contact with your face. Make sure they have no oil and no irritants.

Build Up of Bacteria

Bacteria are not dirt. Dirt does not cause acne, although it may worsen it. Washing too often does remove dirt, but harms the skin. Benzoyl peroxide kills P. acnes bacteria responsible for acne growth. You might want to add products with this ingredient as part of your skin regimen. The medication, however, might cause over dryness, peeling, and sensitivity to sun. Lessening the application, applying moisturizer, and applying sunscreen are ways to deal with the side effects. If irritation persists, stop using the medication.

For more information about acne, see related blog posts.

Last Updated: August 22, 2015

Product Review: Kiehl's Ultra Facial Oil-Free Gel Cream

I've never tried anything from Kiehl's before. The first time I entered their shop was during my search for a hair product. I got turned off immediately because of the expensive price. However, during my trip to Singapore with friends, I found myself again inside a Kiehl's store. My friends highly recommended their products, and so I got convinced to buy my first Kiehl's item - a Kiehl's Ultra Facial Oil-Free Gel Cream for SGD 48.00.

(See more updated reviews below.)

Product Name: Kiehl's Ultra Oil-Free Gel Cream
Price and Availability: Php 1700.00 (Kiehl's Philippines) SGD 48.00 (Kiehl's Singapore) , USD 28.48 (Amazon)
Ingredients:
aqua / water, glycerin, alcohol denat., propanodiol, glycereth-26, isononyl isononanoate, ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide / ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, imperata cylindrica root extract, phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, propylene glycol, potassium sorbate, sodium hyaluronate, pseudoaltteromonas ferment extract, citric acid, caprylyl glycol, carbomer, biosaccharide gum-i, panthenol, cucumis sativus juice / cucumber fruit extract, acrylates /c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Analyze ingredients here. (Copy the list above and place it inside the site's text box.)

Presenting, Kiehl's Ultra Facial Oil-Free Gel Cream:

The product is contained in a jar, a rather inefficient choice by Kiehl's if you ask me. I have to really close the lid fast enough after every use because I wouldn't want the product inside to be exposed in the air and dirt for so long. I also dislike the idea of dipping my fingers inside, so I decided to improvise by using a mini plastic spatula (the one that goes with your grocery pudding or gelatin). But since the whole spoon tends to sink in this super lightweight formulation, I just transferred some amount into smaller container. That way I also get to prevent the rest of the product from oxidizing which may lessen it's potency.

I bought Kiehl's Ultra Oil-Free Gel Cream because it is a moisturizer that is recommended for oily skin. It is colorless, unscented, and does not contain any other fragrances (yes, there is a difference between unscented and fragrance-free), which is good for sensitive skin.

The texture is very runny. When applied to skin, it feels so lightweight as if it wasn't there. There is a rather unpleasant odor but it goes away quickly after application. Spreading out the gel is easy and fast, I didn't have to wait long for it to sink in.

I've been using Kiehl's for some time already, and to be honest, I didn't notice any major difference with my long-time moisturizer - Celeteque Facial Moisturizer - considering that it costs a lot lot more. My previous moisturizer was already very good (and highly affordable). It did not cause me breakouts. It is also colorless, unscented, fragrance-free, and hypoallergenic, but has a slightly thicker consistency than Kiehl's (but still lightweight). The only reason why I ditched Celeteque is because it contains DMDM Hydantoin (a preservative known to release formaldehyde).

Perhaps despite the little difference between these two moisturizers, Kiehl's still has the upper hand with regards to the ingredients. Not only does it not contain DMDM Hydantoin, it is also free of the preservative paraben (a highly controversial ingredient that is said to disrupt the endocrine system and cause cancer). In addition, Kiehl's doesn't contain silicones as well, which is present in Celeteque. 

(Learn more about silicones and parabens.)

There is one thing that bothers me about Kiehl's gel cream's formulation though. It's the alcohol content. I know I have oily skin, but that doesn't mean I should expose my skin to the drying and possibly irritating effect of alcohol. But it also contains glycerin, and many other hydrating ingredients that may have countered the drying effect of alcohol. I guess as long as I didn't experience any dryness and irritation from the product, it will be fine to continue using it.

A note of precaution: If you are using chemical peels such as AHA and BHA, or other drying topical medications, you should really worry about the presence of alcohol in the products you are using along with your treatment.

My sister is using the same product with me, and her experience is far better than my so-so result. I noticed that her skin has become smoother and more radiant. She likes Kiehl's very much. And the high price tag is surely a no turn-off to her considering the benefits she's gaining. Well good for her!

So to wrap this post off, in a nutshell, the pros and cons:

Pros:
- No DMDM Hydantoin and parabens
- Unscented and fragrance-free
- No colorings
- Noncomedogenic
- Lightweight

Cons:
- Very expensive
- Jar container
- The not-so-sweet smell (though not a deal-breaker to me)

Verdict:

Will I buy this again? Until I cannot find a far better formulation with a lower price tag, I will stick with Kiehl's. If you are like me who have oily skin, you will surely love the feel of this moisturizer. I also recommend it to people who dislikes parabens and silicones in their products.

Rating:
4/5

UPDATE: June 6, 2013
I'm starting to like this product more and more. Despite the lightweight consistency of the gel, it is packed up with moisturizing power. It's gooey yet easily absorbed in the skin. I noticed my skin appearing a bit dewy, which I really loved (only that my skin becomes very oily during midday). I am yet to see this product's effect on me during the cold months (it's still very humid here). Keep posted for my furture updates.

UPDATE: July 17, 2013
I'm about to finish my tub of Kiehl's moisturizer, and so I have bought another spare. I really like this product. I was wrong to have compared it with my previous drugstore moisturizer as the effect it had on me was far better than my old moisturizer. I use Kiehl's as a night cream as well, and had noticed my skin looked amazing the next morning after waking up. My skin has maintained its smoothness even without applying the moisturizer. There was one time when I forgot to apply it before BB cream but I was amazed how the BB cream was gliding across my skin.

Physical and Chemical Sunscreen

Photo: eltaMD , a combination of both physical and 

chemical sunscreen (Source: Amazon)

What's the use of all the promising skin care products if you don't apply sunscreen? After all, it's the sun's harmful UV rays that give you sunburn, dark spots, age spots, and premature wrinkles. Dabbing on some antioxidants on your skin would only give little help if you don't prevent the culprit that has been causing your skin problems in the first place.

Sunscreens are also particularly very useful to people using acne medications such as myself. Topical acne treatment such as benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid make the skin more sensitive to the sun. Also, sun exposure promotes hyperpigmentation, leading to further darkening of acne marks.

If you are currently looking for a new sunscreen, and have little idea about how to choose one, you might want to check my choosing a sunscreen post first.

There are generally two types of sunscreens, physical and chemical. Each of them works differently to protect your skin.

Physical sunscreens sit on top of your skin to act as a barrier against UV rays. They are very stable under the sun yet leave a noticeably white residue on the skin. Check the ingredients list of your sunscreen. If you see titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide, it is a physical sunscreen.

Chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, should bind first with your skin in order to become effective. Once taken into the skin (a good 30 minutes), it can protect the skin by absorbing and breaking down the UV rays. However, some chemical sunscreens become unstable when exposed to the sun. In order to make it easier for consumers, the Skin Cancer Organization has tested a wide range of sunscreen products and awarded those who passed their photostability tests with their Seal of Recommendation. Note however that a product without the seal does not automatically mean that it is unstable, only that it might not have been checked by the organization yet.

Unlike physical sunscreens, chemical sunscreens may cause skin irritation and breakouts. That is why if you have sensitive skin, it is advisable that you use physical sunscreen instead. However, many women still prefer to use the latter type because it's more lightweight and visually appealing, not to mention it goes better with makeup. 

Many sunscreens today are a combination of both physical and chemical sunscreen, perhaps because it provides a more photostable and aesthetically appealing formulation. According to Skin Cancer Organization, there are generally at least three UV filters used in a formulation:

1. benzophenones for shorter wavelength UVA

2. PABA derivatives, salicylates, cinnamates for UVB

3. avobenzone, ecamsule, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide for the remaining UVA spectrum

There has been a lot of talks within the skin care community about when to apply sunscreen. It is not uncommon for a woman to apply several products in a day, thereby, the issue of whether the order of sunscreen application can affect it's effectiveness has been a concern.

The common approach suggested is to apply sunscreen last in your skin care routine but before makeup. Meaning, cleanse, tone, moisturize, sunscreen, then primer, foundation, etc. However, other sources recommend applying sunscreen first before anything else. That is, you apply it right after you cleanse and tone your skin. This is specially recommended if you're using a chemical sunscreen, because it needs to bind with your skin to be effective.

Despite the different suggestions, the order of when you should apply it is your choice. If you only believe in scientific studies, there are no such studies yet (at least in my knowledge) that has tested a sunscreen's effectiveness with the consideration of the interaction with other skin care products. As for me, if you really want certainty, then the less products you use at daytime, the better. Save those antioxidant serums and ointments at night.

Haven't decided which sunscreen to buy yet? I have listed here some of the sunscreens that are suitable for oily skin type. On the other hand, if you want to find a sunscreen based on active ingredients, Skinacea has done a great job on classifying these products.

Which type of sunscreen are you using right now? Share what you think about sunscreens.

Last Updated: August 3, 2015

Sunscreens for Oily Skin

In my previous post, I've given out five tips when it comes to choosing a sunscreen, so if you have no idea on how to choose a sunscreen, you might want to check this blog post first.

Once you get the general idea of the do's and don'ts of choosing a sunscreen, shopping for a sunscreen can become a breeze, especially if you have normal skin type. However, if you have sensitive skin, a closer look at the ingredients list is a must! You should know if the sunscreen contains physical or chemical UV filters. Certain ingredients may trigger an allergic reaction, such as fragrances and colorings. 

If you have oily skin type, you should watch out for comedogenic ingredients. For aesthetic reasons, you may also want a sunscreen which is less greasy and matte. It's a challenge as many sunscreens are greasy and sticky, some of the ingredients may also clog the pores and trigger a breakout.

If you want to learn about specific customer reviews, check out the Amazon links or see the specific reviews from bloggers that I will also include in the list. 
I myself have very oily skin. Though I would love to have a good protection on the skin, but applying a sunscreen on the face is a very unappealing sensation. It's sticky, greasy, and feels very heavy on the skin. It makes my skin appear oilier than ever, and worse, it leaves a white cast on the skin.

But thanks to the advancements of skin care science, more and more sunscreen products are coming out the shelves with better formulations for women with oily skin type. You can already find several of these with noncomedogenic formula that is lightweight and matte. Women with normal skin type can also benefit from a lightweight formula as it makes the skin more aesthetically appealing and agreeable to makeup.

Here, I've collected a handful of sunscreen products that are friendly to oily skin types. I have also included the ingredients of these products for your reference. Ingredients highlighted in RED have a comedogenicity rating of 3 and above out of 5 scale based on cosdna.com database (but may not necessarily lead to breakouts in the formulation's entirety, so I advise you to check each product review). 

Kiehl's Super Fluid UV Defense SPF 50+

Price and Availability: available on Amazon

Description:

- antioxidant Vitamin E to help prevent free-radical damage
- new optimized combination of sun filters for an even more lightweight, silky, non-greasy finish than before
- oil-free, fragrance free, paraben free, color free
- water resistant (80 Minutes)

Sun Protection: SPF 50 PA+

Ingredients:

Active Ingredients: Avobenzone (3%), Homosalate (15%), Octisalate (5%), Octocrylene (5%) Oxybenzone (6%) 

Inactive Ingredients: Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Alcohol Denatured, Silica, Dicaprylyl Ether, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Dimethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Nylon-12, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Phenoxyethanol, Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone, Sodium Chloride, Caprylyl Glycol, Methylparaben, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Disodium EDTA, Dodecene, Poloxamer 407

Remarks:

The formula is noncomedogenic yet contains a relatively high concentration of alcohol, which is an irritant.

Reviews:

http://www.musingsofamuse.com/2011/08/kiehls-super-fluid-uv-defense-spf-50-review.html

Alba Botanica Hawaiian Green Tea

Price and Availability: Php 375.00 (Healthy Options) / 113g (4oz.); also available on Amazon

Description:
- water-resistant for 80 minutes
- paraben-free
- non-greasy

Sun Protection: SPF 45

Ingredients:

Active Ingredients: Homosalate 10.0% (sunscreen), octocrylene 10.0% (sunscreen), ethylhecyl methoxycinnamate 7.5% (sunscreen), ethylhexyl salicylate 5.0% (sunscreen), titanium dioxide 2.0% (sunscreen) 

Inactive Ingredients: Aqua (water), glycerin, cetearyl olivate, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate SE, sorbitan olivate, dimethicone, VP/hexadecene copolymer, caprylic/capric triglyceride, aloe barbadensis leaf juice*, calendula officinalis flower extract*, camellia sinensis leaf extract*, chamomilla recutita (matricaria) flower extract*, ginkgo biloba leaf extract, lavandula angustifolia (lavender) flower/leaf/stem extract*, sodium stearoyl glutamate, tocopheryl acetate, xanthan gum, alcohol, benzyl alcohol, ethylhecyglycerin, phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, citronellol, geraniol, hexyl cinnamal, limonene, linalool and fragrance. 

Remarks:

It's water-based and oil-free. The inclusion of soothing Aloe and antioxidant Green Tea extract is a plus for this product. It also has other moisturizing ingredients such as glycerin. Ingredients to watch out for are: alcohol, fragrances, silicones, and the high concentration of comedogenic cetyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate SE.

My Own Review:

http://seriousskincareblog.blogspot.com/2014/01/product-review-alba-botanica-hawaiian.html

Reviews:
http://galelovescolors.blogspot.com/2012/10/review-alba-botanica-hawaiian-sunscreen.html

Eltamd UV Clear 

Price and Availability: Php 700.00+ (eBay) / 48g (1.7oz.); also available on Amazon

Description:

- lightweight and oil-free
- no parabens
- for sensitive and acne-prone skin

Sun Protection: SPF 46

Ingredients:

Active Ingredients: Zinc Oxide (9.0%), Octinoxate (7.5%) 

Inactive Ingredients: Purified Water, Cyclomethicone, Niacinamide, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyisobutene, PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lactic Acid, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Remarks:

It's water-based and has a impressive list of ingredients. It contains silicones though which may be a drawback to other people.

Reviews:

http://renata-skincare.blogspot.com/2013/03/light-moisturizer-with-sunscreen.html

Last Updated: July 28,2015