Selasa, 15 November 2011

Understanding Sunscreen Labels: Information about the Ingredients


A bottle of sunscreen.
A bottle of sunscreen.
Source: comedy_nose | Flickr
Some of the ingredients you might find in a bottle of sunscreen are:
  • Zinc oxide
  • Titanium dioxide
  • Avobenzone
  • Oxybenzone
  • Mexoryl SX (ecamsule)
  • Retinyl Palmitate or Retinol
The purpose of sunscreen is to absorb or scatter UV radiation. Both types of UV (A and B) should be avoided. Older sunscreens don’t offer that. That is why we should look for labels with broad spectrum, wide spectrum, or UVA/UVB spectrum. Ingredients such as zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, avobenzone, mexoryl SX (ecamsule) and oxybenzone offer broad-spectrum protection. But according to the Environmental Working Group or EWG, oxybenzone is a “hormone- disrupting” compound as shown in a study of mice, and should therefore be avoided. The group recommends zinc oxide and titanium dioxide as safe and effective UV blockers. Ecamsule is also safe but very few sunscreens has this forumulation, while avobenzone should be limited to only 3%.
Another ingredient is the retinyl palmitate (retinol), added to sunscreens for its antioxidative properties. It's usually added for cosmetic purposes and can also be found on beauty products such as facial creams. It’s a form of Vitamin A and is an inactive ingredient in sunscreens. The EWG is against the use of this ingredient, as it accelerates skin damage and poses skin cancer risks when applied under the sun, test results in mice shows.
The American Academy of Dermatology contradicts these claims. In a recent post in their website (See link below), the academy states that sunscreens are safe to use. Oxybenzone is an FDA-approved chemical and has been used in sunscreens since 1978. Retinyl palmitate is also safe to use. In fact, this vitamin has been widely prescribed to treat skin diseases. Research studies suggesting these chemicals’ harmful effects on health are tested on mice and therefore shouldn’t be related to humans. Mice are far more susceptible to skin cancer than human beings. Also, the amount of ingredients tested on these rodents is in significantly greater amount than what is used in sunscreens. People with skin conditions such as eczema, on the other hand, should avoid using sunscreens altogether (even those with EWG approved compounds). As chemicals from these products would enter through the cracks of the skin with yet unknown effects.
In a nutshell, the EWG says that we should avoid oxybenzone and retinyl palmitate. The AAD, on the other hand, says that these chemicals are safe to use. EWG advises us to opt for sunscreens with titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, ecamsule, or avobenzone (but at only at 3%). Perhaps it might be too early to conclude about the dangers of some chemicals, when in fact, these are just derived from animal tests and are given in greater amounts. Until now, we could only wait for more research studies to be conducted regarding their safety. If you want to be on the safe side, just use sunscreens with EWG approved compounds. Of course, sunscreen is not the only defensive line against the UV radiation. We should not forget about the sunglasses, hats and protective clothing. Also, both EWG and AAD agree on applying sunscreen properly (Do not use it sparingly!) and frequently. It is still best to avoid exposure or if not with prolonged durations during midday as much as possible.

Selasa, 08 November 2011

Skincare Product Ingredients that Won't Clog Pores

I have an acne-prone skin and a very oily face. I guess it runs in the family. In the morning after washing my face, my skin becomes rejuvenated, clean, and glowing. However, as soon as midday arrives, my face starts to become very shiny. The sebum that appears of course makes my skin even more prone to acne breakouts.

Do you know that oil is one of the major contributing factor to breakouts? Oil blocks the skin pores and therefore leads to breakouts. That is why oily-skinned people need to control their excess oil production. Choosing the right skincare products is even more important, as you don't want to add more oil to your already oily skin. Take note though, that not all oils or fats or lipids are comedogenic or pore-clogging. Some are in fact very good moisturizers that act not only as lubricants but also as a barrier between your skin and the harsh entities from the environment.

However, it is not that simple to just list down all the acne causing ingredients in order to completely avoid breakouts. In addition, it is often difficult to determine an ingredient's comedogenic potential, as researches often show inconsistent results. More so, the combination of certain ingredients changes the comedogenic potential of the final mixture of the product. Even skincare products having no comedogenic ingredients at all may possibly cause breakout.

The verdict? Well, more research is needed, but for now, learn all you can about the ingredients' current information. You may not correctly predict a certain product's comedogenicity based on the ingredients alone, yet there are certainly some ingredients that you definitely need to avoid. These are the heavy and penetrating oils or fatty acids such as cocoa butterisopropyl myristate, and lauric acid. For cosmetics, avoid mica (a mineral that adds shimmer to your skin) and coal tar derivatives as they are highly irritating to the skin. Here's a helpful link I've found that lists down all the ingredients that are comedogenic and irritating.

Of course, the bottom line is to use your common sense. If you notice that your skin breaks out after using a certain product, discontinue usage. To be on the safe side, always try a new product in a small area behind your ear and wait three days to check for any sign of irritation. If you find no bad effects, then go ahead and use the product!

UPDATE: In my latest post, I've listed the highly comedogenic ingredients commonly found in skincare products. It is a summary of a study conducted by James E. Fulton.

Minggu, 06 November 2011

How to Choose Sunscreen



Sun Protection
It sure is fun to play outdoors, but be sure to wear proper sun protection. Choose the right kind of sunscreen for better protection.
Source: Photo by africa via Freedigitalphotos

It's summer already! Time to hit the beaches and have some outdoor fun. But beware of the sun. Don't forget one very crucial step to your skin regimen: applying sunscreen.
Sunscreen blocks the sun's harmful rays that damage the skin. Stores offer a wide range of sunscreen products and it might be confusing to us which products to choose. Here are some tips for choosing your sunscreen:


#1 Check if it has both UVA and UVB protection. Choose sunscreens that has UV broad spectrum labels. Studies have shown that both UVA and UVB are harmful to the skin and increase the risk for cancer. UVA have longer frequencies and penetrates deeper into your skin and causes tanning. UVB, on the other hand, affects the more superficial layer of the skin and causes sunburn and reddening.
NOTE: Effective by the summer of 2012, sunscreen manufacturers will be required to label their bottles with broad spectrum provided they offer protection for both UVA and UVB rays. Their products should also meet the minimum standard for UVA protection in order to have this claim.
#2 Choose Sunscreen that has an SPF of at least 30. According to the Skin Care Foundation, this number indicates how long it takes for UVB to redden your skin when the sunscreen is applied. Meaning, the higher the SPF, the longer it takes for your skin to redden. But it does not mean that having the highest SPF product available is the most effective protective measure against these rays. It is more efficient to use a minimum SPF product and reapply for every two hours or as necessary (if you sweat too much) rather than using a high SPF product and not reapply at all.
NOTE: Currently, there is no standard for measuring UVA protection. New FDA rules, however, require sunscreens with the broad spectrum label to indicate that a higher SPF rating (that is, higher UVB protection) will also mean a higher protection against UVA. Products without UVA protection will only indicate the SPF rating for UVB.
Eltamd UV Clear SPF 46, 48-Gram 1.7 oz.Eltamd UV Clear SPF 46, 48-Gram 1.7 oz.
Amazon Price: $24.59
List Price: $29.00
Eltamd UV Physical SPF 41, 85-GramEltamd UV Physical SPF 41, 85-Gram
Amazon Price: $22.59
List Price: $27.00
#3 Don't forget to look for a noncomedogenic label. Check if your facial sunscreen contains the label to avoid clogging pores. Other forms of sunscreens such as powder or aerosol spray are also available for people who want to have a less greasy feel. However, sunscreen creams are still preferable as it provides better coverage on the skin.
Amore Pacific Laneige Sun Block Triple SPF40 PA++ 70mlAmore Pacific Laneige Sun Block Triple SPF40 PA++ 70ml
Amazon Price: $26.99
List Price: $30.00
#4 Note that beauty products might have SPF too. Products such as foundation and lip gloss might contain SPF. Even some facial moisturizers offer sun protection. But take note, such products are categorized as cosmetic products, therefore, bypassing the inspection of food and drug authority. Sunscreens are considered medicines, undergoing strict regulations, thereby ensuring safety for the skin.
Neutrogena Ultra Sheer SPF 45 Twin Pack 3.0 Fl OzNeutrogena Ultra Sheer SPF 45 Twin Pack 3.0 Fl Oz
Amazon Price: $8.95
List Price: $14.99
KINeSYS  Sunscreen, SPF 30, Spray, Fragrance Free, 4-Ounce BottlesKINeSYS Sunscreen, SPF 30, Spray, Fragrance Free, 4-Ounce Bottles
Amazon Price: $13.60
List Price: $18.99
#5 Sunscreens can be physical, chemical, or both. Physical sunscreens act as the skin's shield by reflecting UV. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are some examples of physical sunscreen ingredients. Chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, absorb UV. They contain ingredients such as Avobenzone, Oxybenzone or Octocrylene. If you have sensitive skin, consider buying a physical sunscreen to avoid allergic reactions.

Sabtu, 05 November 2011

Frugal Shopping and Reading the Labels


Choose your products wisely.

Photo by Ambro 




I came from a frugal family. Going to boutiques has been a challenge to us. When we choose products, we not only consider the quality but also the price. I remembered going to a boutique with my mom many years ago. I was so happy to find a very cheap bottle of lotion. It was a buy one take one commodity. I quickly showed it to my mom, but soon after
, she stopped me from placing it into the shopping basket. She told me the brand was an unknown one. Also, the lotion was manufactured in China. For some reasons, my mom was very apprehensive of products coming from China. It was way long before the melamine scare from dairy products or the infamous recall of China toys.

Anyway, so I got disappointed because the thought of getting a good bargain quickly dissipated into thin air. We bought another well-known lotion instead of the product I’d intended to buy. I was very young then. I then came to realize that although quality should never be compromised with the price, knowing the product’s composition would help me save money. Sometimes, the tendency for consumers who lack knowledge about the ingredients is to just choose the products based on the price. People tend to think that the more expensive the product, the better the quality. Frugal people tend to go for the middle price - not too expensive, not too cheap. But price is not always the accurate indicator of quality. It was during that realization that I have decided to learn more about reading labels. 

Here is a list of the common skin care ingredients you might find in your favorite products. By learning about the ingredients, you’ll know whether the product you are using is safe or not, effective or ineffective. You will also realize whether the money you are spending on these products is worthwhile.

Jumat, 04 November 2011

My Dermatologist

I used to have a lot of pimples. My lack of knowledge on skin care had worsened my acne condition. I rubbed and scrubbed my face and overused topical medications. My skin was peeling so badly. But I endured all these unsightly marks thinking that acne is normal for teenagers. High school passed then came college. My skin became a bit better, as a friend suggested me to use Likas Papaya Soap which has salicylic acid ingredient. However, my skin was still flaky and dry. Breakouts would still occur from time to time as college life was quite stressful. Now that I’m way beyond those teen years, I still get breakouts. It was only a few years ago that I decided to see a dermatologist.

My dermatologist gave me a facial. Every session he would manually tweeze my pimples using his special equipments, a procedure called extraction. It wasn’t that painful. He gave me a skin care regimen to follow daily. So there, I would always buy those skin care products from his clinic. Those bottles didn’t have any brand names. Only the active ingredients were included in the label. I had no clear idea what products I was using.

I painstakingly did my research. I learned about the ingredients found in personal care products. I also learned how to read the labels. I stopped buying products from my dermatologist and started switching to store-bought products. I realized that by doing this, I could save more money. Of course this is not something that you could simply do especially when you have severe acne. If you have controllable acne, you could just rely on good personal care products for better skin. Of course, research thoroughly and see which works best for you. Read my article Skin Care 101.

Of course, my dermatologist was good. After a few sessions, my skin became smoother and clearer. The only problem I had was the brandless products. For me, it would have been better if he just suggested some personal care product brands that were suitable for me instead of selling me his own. Recently, a friend passed by another skin care clinic only to find out some of the dermatologist's employees filling out dozens of empty plastic bottles with a certain skin care product. Now that might be what my own dermatologist was doing.